23 April 2026
Tomoyuki Usui’s culinary journey began in Yokohama, where he spent a decade honing his skills in both classic and modern French restaurants. His ambition brought him to Sydney in 2004, a move motivated by his love of surfing and food.
Usui has worked in high-calibre kitchens around the world, including L’Astrance in Paris. In Sydney, he refined his skills as a head chef at venues such as Rabbit Hole Bar and Dining and S’Age Bistronomy. He is no stranger to the North Shore, having previously worked at Waqu in Crows Nest.
After a stint at Waqu, he moved across the freeway to Cremorne, where his latest venture, Kholl, marks the third evolution of his restaurant on the site since 2017. He initially launched Plage, a French-Japanese fusion spot, before shifting to the more traditional Japanese style of Izakaya Umina in 2023. Kholl, whose name derives from ‘charcoal’, represents Usui’s new vision: a modern, approachable bistro aimed at attracting locals and families.
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The concept is described by Usui as “casual fine dining, but not fine dining… a little more casual, somewhere in between”.
Kholl is centred around the charcoal grill, with a focus on seasoning and precise cooking. Usui aims to create contrast in flavour and texture, balancing “fat and lightness… more acid, soft and crispy, fresh”.
A surprising standout has been the crispy Brussels sprouts, prepared with truffle powder and chardonnay vinegar. Usui said the dish has drawn strong feedback from customers who previously disliked the vegetable: “A lot of people are saying that they hate Brussels sprouts… but they just try a bite and they go a different way.”
Other small plates include grilled sweet corn ribs in caramelised soy and fried cauliflower and broccoli with white miso, peas and sultanas. For something more classic, there is roasted carrot with white sesame yoghurt, fermented carrot, wattle seed and butter.
The charcoal grill delivers signature items such as black angus sirloin or wagyu flank steak, alongside daily-fired proteins including chicken. The steak is kept simple—served with mustard and a choice of four sauces: truffle ponzu, red wine jus, smoked garlic emulsion or Kholl butter—placing the emphasis on technique and sourcing.
For something more distinctive, the menu features chestnut gnocchi with a fermented mushroom sauce. Usui said he is focused on producing elements in-house, noting: “I’m doing the fermentation here… house-made fermentation, so we can really focus on that as well.”
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Although the charcoal grill is central, seafood also plays a role. Dishes such as butter-poached John Dory are served with fermented tomato, dashi butter and avruga caviar. For those wanting a broader experience, a seven-course sharing menu is available for $95.
Kholl operates a seasonal menu, with an emphasis on high-quality, fresh ingredients. Usui said he remains responsive to local preferences.
While the venue offers six signature cocktails, Usui said customer preferences have shifted since the transition to Kholl. “Since we changed to Kholl, people are more focused on the wines, so I’m getting more wines now,” he said.
As a result, the bar has expanded its wine offering alongside a smaller sake selection. The restaurant is also introducing wine and sake pairing options, which Usui described as central to the experience: “It’s all about matching, harmonising.”